Mangawhai Heads

Mangawhai Heads

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Photo By:

Sids1

If you’re driving or RVing to Northland in New Zealand, you’ll probably spend at least one night in Whangarei. You can probably make Whangarei in a couple of hours if you don’t take the scenic roads or get stuck on the Nippon Clipon . Hopefully you drive faster than I write. I left you somewhere around Wellsford on July 11.

Just north of Wellsford, the road forks. SH1 heads for Whangarei. You’ll take SH1 if you want to cut across to the west side of the North Island on SH12. The scenic route to Whangarei– all good road– drops off to the right where you’ll find Mangawhai Heads. About 51 miles from Auckland, you can make it in about 90 minutes, spend the day, and continue to Whangarei 30 miles away– or stop over in Waipu or Ruakaka. Mangawhai Heads, a point break with a sandy beach, is popular with surfers. I’ve walked the beach, but never surfed– and probably never will since they remind you to "Take care of rocks and sharks." If you’re a surfer, you can find a

Surf Forecast and Surf Report. They’ll also give a snow forecast and a list of nearby ski resorts– which aren’t nearby. You’ve come to Northland for sun and surf. It’s sub-tropical.

If you didn’t come to New Zealand to make friends with a shark, take a two-hour walk along the cliffs where you’ll see offshore the nearby Hens and Chickens, a popular diving area, or the Hauraki Gulf Islands. You can also enjoy the Heads and stay dry by paragliding from the cliffs. This short DVD gives you a view of Mangawhai Heads.

Mangawhai Heads

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Photo By:

Sids1

Around the point on the north side, Bream Bay stretches in an arc from Langs Beach to Marsden Point. Some estuaries are wildlife refuges for shorebirds and waders including the protected NZ dotterel and variable oyster catcher. You’ll see many unfamiliar birds. If you like birds, pick up Geoff Moon’s Common Birds in New Zealand mentioned in For the Birds.

Langs Beach and Waipu Cove are good spots to stop for a picnic on the beach while enjoying swimming surfing or fishing.

Bring a torch and cool off in nearby Waipu Caves. The caves are wet and slippery, so wear good shoes. The main cave is 175 meters long and you’ll find stalagmites, stalactites and glow worms. If you want to explore some of the deeper caverns, be sure you tell someone where you’re heading, or hire a guide.

Maybe caves are not your cup of tea–just too dark and cold. The Waipu Caves Walkway (signposted on Ormiston Road) climbs a ridge through farm land then wanders through a scenic reserve to the cave area.

Piroa Falls, just south of Waipu is a 10 minute walk up a steep zigzagging path to a beautiful swimming hole. Just keep your eye out for "Flying Kiwis" jumping off the top of the falls. You’ll end up with a headache if one lands on you.

Whether you take the straight shot up SH1 or the scenic route along the cliffs and beaches, you’ll end up at Waipu. Concrete parking is available for 4 $NZ (free if just overnight) at Waipu Cove Reserve Camp on Cove Road.

If you have a self-contained RV and want to spend your money on Lion Red Beer and a good dinner, you might find free parking behind the hotel in Waipu– please ask first.

Lyn Harris
RV in NZ: How to Spend Your Winters South in New Zealand

Dome Forest Loop

Tuatara

When you travel the loop around Dome Forest in Northland, New Zealand, you’ll find forest hiking paths, working farms, and a marine sanctuary. At Warkworth, where we left off on our tour up SH1, take a scenic loop around Dome Forest. You’ll end up back on SH1 near Wellsford. You’re still not far from Auckland, so this makes a good day trip if you’re stuck in Auckland on business and want to see more of New Zealand than just city traffic.

In Dome Forest, you’ll find a hiking trail that leads to a viewing platform. It’s about a 20 minute, fairly easy hike to the viewing platform. Then, if you’d like to view Taranga Island of the Hens and Chickens, climb through the rocks to Dome Summit. The descent through a Kauri grove is easier. The trail crosses land sacred to local Maori, so keep on the trail.

A side road to Tawharanui Regional Park drops down to the right off this loop around Dome Forest not far from Sandspit—where the boat leaves for Kawau Island. The park road winds through farmland and ends in a gravel section. Once a private farm, the park, with its long sandy beach and grassy pohutakawa shaded areas, covers the end of the peninsula that pokes out into the Pacific Ocean just north of Kawau Island. There’s also a good walking trail that starts near a protected area of New Zealand dotterel birds, continues up the beach, then climbs across farmland to a forest. Points of interest along the trail are marked and trail guides are available for the longer trails. Tent camping sites are available, but book in advance in summer months.

Goat Island

Photo By:

Piotr Zurek

New Zealand’s marine reserve, Goat Island , spreads between Cape Rodney and Okakari Point. This is an excellent area to enjoy tide pools at low tide, snorkel, or dive. Although fishing is not allowed in the reserve, boats can launch in Leigh cove. There’s a five knot speed limit within 200 meters of shore or a dive flag and you’re reminded to anchor carefully so you don’t destroy the marine environment. Dive and snorkeling gear can be rented. If you’re not anxious to get wet, try a glass-bottom boat or you can explore the reserve with a PADI certified guide.

You might find your best chance to see a tuatara up close in the reptile park at Ti Point.

If you’d like to spend time on an isolated working farm, ride horseback along the beach and sanddunes, or pack into high country forest for a night or two, Pakiri Beach Horse Rides is just north of Goat Island marine reserve. The first road at Pakiri goes to the beach, the next road brings you to the 2000 acre family farm of Laly and Sharley Haddon. Beach cabins and river cabins are available as well as a beach house on the dunes that sleeps eight. Rides are from one hour along the beach to several days meandering through high country, farmlands and forests with views of the Hauraki Gulf. At night guests sleep along the trail in farm and beach houses– including the ancestral house of the Ngati Wai, while learning about Maori history and legends.

The loop around Dome Forest brings you back to SH1 just 19 km north at Wellsford. The road as far as Cape Rodney is in good shape. Beyond Pakiri, it’s windy, in poor condition, and no towing is allowed. If you’re not in the mood for a windy, dirty, road, just backtrack to Warkworth– or spend the night at Pakiri Beach Holiday Park and return the next day.

Lyn Harris

RV in NZ: How to Spend Your Winters South in New Zealand