Around Waitangi

Maori

Meeting House

Waitangi

New Zealand

If you travel Northland, New Zealand by RV or auto in early February, and happen to be in the Bay of Islands, you’ll find free concerts, political speeches, the New Zealand Navy firing a 21-gun salute, Maori wakas (war canoes) and 40,000 other party people squeezed into and around the Waitangi Treaty Grounds.

Waitangi Day is a national holiday to celebrate the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi between Queen Victoria’s government and some Maori tribal chiefs. It has never been ratified and they’re still trying to figure out what it means. The treaty was signed on the grounds of James Busby’s house at Waitangi February 6, 1840. A draft had been presented to the local Maori chiefs the previous day. Governor Hobson had returned to his ship anchored in the bay and expected the Maori to discuss the treaty and maybe sign it the following day. The chiefs had talked it over the previous night, didn’t have enough food to wait another day, and wanted it signed ASAP so they could get home to dinner. Hobson was rowed back to shore again, didn’t have time to dress for the occasion, and signed it in his civilian clothes just after noon.

In 1932, the run-down house of James Busby was gifted to the nation. In 1934 the first celebration was held in honor of its restoration. Kiwis always like a party and the tradition continued through the 1950's. Reluctant to add another public holiday to the calendar, they finally decided to substitute Waitangi Day for Auckland Anniversary Day.

Treaty House

Waitangi

*

Photo By:

Sandy Austin

The treaty was between the Crown and Maori. Queen Elizabeth II is officially New Zealand’s Queen. She is represented by a Governor General who ratifies laws by the parliament of New Zealand. Usually, the Prime Minister is the official representing the Crown on Waitangi Day.

Fun and games often start a few days earlier. On the 5th, the dignitaries are welcomed and speeches are given by both sides. At dawn on Waitangi Day, the Royal New Zealand Navy raises the New Zealand Flag, Union Jack, and White Ensign on the flagstaff on the Treaty Grounds. During the day, there’s a church service, games, Maori cultural entertainment, concerts, wakas charging around the bay and a navy ship re-enactment of the calling ashore of Governor Hobson to sign the Treaty– not all that traditional since the officer has a little more time to dress this time. The day ends with the Royal Guard of Honour and a Beat Retreat at Ceremonial Sunset on the Treaty Grounds lawn.

Meeting House

Waitangi

*

Photo By:

Sandy Austin

Even a holiday won’t please everybody. There’s often controversy. Protesters don’t seem to like this flagpole on the Treaty Grounds any better than the one near Russell. In 2004, protesters managed to hike the Maori Sovereignty Flag above the others on the flagstaff by flying it over a nearby tree. One year, a cruise ship cancelled their scheduled stop in the Bay of Islands– afraid a passenger might end up in the middle of what they believed was a re-enactment of the Musket War. Prime Minister Helen Clark also decided to visit elsewhere that year. As Waitangi day is celebrated throughout New Zealand, it wasn’t hard for her to find a more peaceful celebration. Considering the crowds, protestors, and four days of free flowing liquor, there seems to be few serious problems– don’t mess with the flags and you won’t be a guest of Her Majesty.

The best time to wander and enjoy that small spectacular park, Waitangi Treaty Grounds, is not during Waitangi Day surrounded by 40,000 booze appreciating party goers– moonshine is legal in New Zealand. Home manufacturing of hard alcohol is allowed in small quantities. Kits are available in stores. The government seems concerned you distill your alcohol safely and don’t kill yourself.

Maori

War Canoes

*

Photo By

nickvine

Until recently, entrance to the Treaty Grounds was free. Now, admission is $20 for two days if you’re not a Kiwi– the Maori version of sock it to the tourist. Tourist won’t complain and don’t hang around long. The tourist tax is suspended for Waitangi Day. There’s only two roads in– over the bridge from Pahia or the Puketona Road from Haruru. If you want to enter the grounds, just smile and remember your own town usually has a bed tax– just another way to squeeze dollars from travelers who must have more than you since they’re traveling and you’re not.

During the regular season-- not the silly season, those 3 or 4 days around Waitangi Day– you can find individual Maori guides to give you a tour of the grounds. You can also enjoy a musical performance in the carved Maori Meeting House. If you pay the $20 tourist tax, you can wander around the Treaty Grounds and nature trail on your own.

As War Canoes

Come In

*

Photo By:

archmage01

On leased land from the trust, the Waitangi Golf Club hangs out over the Bay of Islands. If you’re a golfer, stop in at the club house, enjoy a drink, and swap tee tales. Green fees are reasonably priced and visitors are welcome. Clubs, riding carts, and hand carts can be rented, You can buy most anything else in the pro shop. Even if you take the scenic course when golfing and zigzag your way along, try the Waitangi Golf Club. The price is reasonable, but you can pretend you’re a millionaire. just carry spare balls to donate to the Goddess of the Sea. This is one course you won’t forget.

There is no overnight camping on the Waitangi National Reserve. Haruru Falls Motor Inn on Puketona Rd and Haruru Falls Resort on Old Wharf Rd are reasonably priced if you’re traveling by car of RV and trying to save your Kiwi dollars for that golf course. Free overnight parking is available at Waipapa Landing a little north– and we’re heading in that direction.

Lyn Harris

RV in NZ: How to Spend Your Winters South in New Zealand

Auckland on the Cheap

Auckland

City Centre

*

Photo By:

Hanni

The first time I traveled New Zealand, I didn’t worry about traveling on the cheap. I flew into Auckland, rented a car and spent three weeks zigzagging from Auckland to Christchurch. I stayed at quality hotels, wandered into any restaurant that took my fancy, checked out the Waitomo Caves, watched the well mannered sheep at the Agrodome, and even managed to squeeze in a two day farm stay. Then, I flew home and went back to work to pay off the credit card bills that trickled in over the next couple of months. Those were the days when I was young, dumb, and richer.

That’s still a good way to travel if you have the big bickies. There’s nothing quite like hanging out at a top quality hotel or resort and wallowing around in all that pampering to make you feel special. It will probably strain the budget if you want to spend four or five months in New Zealand. If that’s your plan, you might need to consider at least some of that "On the Cheap."

Auckland Sunset

*

Photo By:

Kenny Muir

Melanie McMinn has a new blog Auckland on the Cheap. She lists inexpensive activities and cheap places to eat in Auckland. Melanie is not a travel agent or promoting a business so you get information about a little of this and a little of that– whatever happens to be cheap in Auckland. If you’re traveling to New Zealand and have a question about saving money in Auckland, send Melanie an email. If you’re a Kiwi and have a tip to share, she’d like to hear from you, too.

Enjoy your time in Auckland even if it is "On the Cheap." As Melanie says, "After all, fun doesn’t have to be expensive!"

Lyn

RV in NZ: How to Spend Your Winters South in New Zealand

Russell

Russell

Bay of Islands

*

Photo By:

Sandy Austin Whanau

While traveling New Zealand’s Bay of Islands, you can always find a place to stay in Pahia, that small tourist town where the bus stops. Because Pahia has a good-sized wharf, cruise ships anchored in the bay shuttle their people to shore to check out the nearby Treaty House, try a fresh seafood meal, book a sightseeing trip, or buy that souvenir for mom. If you’re traveling by auto or RV, why not stay in Russell? This small village, once the capitol of New Zealand is tucked away and harder to reach, but it’s quaint, packed with history and you can easily get yourself back to Pahia on the small passenger ferry. When you explore the bay, those sight seeing trips can be booked just as easily from Russell.

Captain Cook anchored around Kororareka headland in 1769 and gave the Bay of Islands its English name. Abel Tasman poked around those waters over a hundred years earlier. In 1642, he said some unfriendly words about the local inhabitants, traveled south and spotted the Southern Alps, then headed north up the Tasman Sea to check out those Tasmanian Devils.

According to Maori legend, those unfriendly Polynesians arrived in New Zealand in the 10th century. As they had no written language, it’s hard to prove one way or the other. Eager to escape food shortages and war, they found plenty of food, though not much good red meat. They were not vegetarians. Tough Old Lady Cove reminds us what can happen to a nagging mother-in-law. The Maori brought kumara– a sweet potato-like vegetable that grows best in a warm climate. Although Maori settled throughout New Zealand, the majority of them kept their kumara happy and settled in this semi-tropical section of New Zealand.

Russell

Police Station

*

Photo By:

murtuza707

In the early 1800's, Russell, originally named Kororareka or sweet penguin by the Maori, was known as the "hell-hole of the Pacific." With its rowdy night life, it became a popular port with Pacific whalers. When British convicts were brought to New South Wales in Australia, those now empty ships needed cargo for the return trip and the British government needed to train seamen for the Royal Navy. So, they offered money to encourage Americans to join the whaling fleet. An American captain on the British boat William and Ann first hunted whales in New Zealand waters in 1791. By 1838, Kororareka was an international port with more or less 100 ships anchored at any time. Whalers picked up supplies, repaired their ships, and gave their men a chance to get rough and rowdy in this best little "hell hole of the Pacific."

During the early 1800's, whaling was a major part of the European economy. Whale oil was used to light city streets and lubricate machines. Sperm whale oil was odorless and could be used indoors. Spermaceti, a liquid wax from the sperm whale’s head, was used to lubricate precision instruments and to make smokeless candles. Sperm whales were hunted in open water. Black or right whales were hunted in bays or near the shore not only for their oil, but for the baleen which hangs inside their mouth to filter food. Baleen, the same material as human fingernails, was used for lady’s corsets. Ambergris (grey amber) found in the sperm whale’s bowel was used as a base for perfume and also an aphrodisiac for those European males excited by all that plump perfumed flesh squashed into those lady’s corsets.

Russell Harbour

from

Flagstaff Hill

*

Photo By:

pompeyduchess

On Maiki Hill, above this sheltered village stacked up the hillside overlooking the bay, you can still find a flagpole where the Union Jack was raised by the British and occasionally lowered by the Maori. In 1845, after New Zealand’s capitol was moved from Russell to Auckland, the rowdy sailors slipped away and a financial recession hit the Bay of Islands. When the government didn’t offer a stimulus bailout, the local Maori protested and took over Russell. The Union Jack was lowered rather roughly for the fourth time. In 1857, the flagpole was replaced by the son of Kawiti, one of the Maori Chiefs in this Battle of Kororareka. A piece of this original flagpole is in the Russell museum. The United Tribes flag of 1834 is still flown 12 days a year.

The only way to get to Russell for many years was by a coastal steamer that brought supplies and passengers twice a week. During the depression years of the 1930's, a coastal road from Whakapara was built by government public works crews. "The Back Road" as it’s still called is windy and scary. "Best driven at night so you can see the headlights coming and get out of the way," we were told. We drove it once. Once was enough. If you have a rental vehicle, your insurance might not cover you if you’re on this road. Don’t miss that last vehicle ferry from Opua.

Tourist guides would call Russell unique and charming. Those are hokey but accurate words. The Duke of Marlboro Hotel on the waterfront has been up and down almost as many times at that flagpole. The (5th) Duke, built in the 1870's, burned in 1931. You can’t keep a good Duke down, so if you’re pub hopping, stay a night or two at the Duke. If you’re RVing or booked some where else, at least stop in for a drink and a meal. We’ve had Christmas dinner there– an elegant English meal worth every penny. The Duke of Marlboro is one of many New Zealand historic hotels.

Pompallier House

*

Photo By:

Andrew&Suzanne

Built in 1841, Pompallier, New Zealand’s oldest surviving Roman Catholic buildings, is now a museum. You can easily spend a day in the Russell Museum digging through photos and remnants of history, so don’t cut your time short in Russell.

If you’re RVing or on a budget, stay at the Holiday Park. It’s one of the nicest RV parks in New Zealand. Surrounded by flowers and perched on a hill, it overlooks the bay. You can walk the short distance to town, book one of the scenic cruises near the wharf, or catch the passenger ferry to Pahia and check out the other tourists. The Holiday Park has rooms as well as RV spaces. Bring your own bedding and towel for a cheaper rate. If you have a tent, a large grassy area– usually fully booked during the holiday season– is available. Russell and this RV park are popular with Kiwis, so book ahead in January.

Slip back into history in this sheltered little town of Russell. Roam around the beach, sip a brew in The Duke, or climb the hill for a panoramic view of the Bay of Islands and Motuarohia just around the Kororareka headland where James Cook anchored. Just don’t mess with that flagpole. It’s caused enough commotion in this once rowdy, now sleepy little town.



Lyn Harris


RV in NZ: How to Spend Your Winters South in New Zealand

The Bay of Islands

Urupukapuka Island

Bay of Islands

*

Photo by:

williwieberg

If you managed to get yourself to the Bay of Islands in New Zealand by RV, auto, or bus, don’t rush by. There’s plenty to see and do. If you came for the water, try game fishing or swim with the dolphins. If you like boats, charter a yacht and spend nights in a sheltered anchorage or pick something a little smaller and paddle around in a sea kayak.

If you came north by bus, you’ll end up in Pahia, a small tourist town with three sandy beaches. You’ll find motels as well as backpacker accommodation in Pahia. In nearby Waitangi, the treaty between the British Crown and Maori chiefs was signed in 1840. From the wharf in Pahia, you can catch a passenger ferry to Russell– once the capital of New Zealand. A little farther north, you can reach Kerikeri by jogging back to Hwy 10. At Kerikeri, you’ll find orchards, wineries, arts and craft shops, and the oldest building in New Zealand– Kemp House.


From all this "once the capital...oldest building" I’ve been dropping in, you’ve probably guessed you’re surrounded by history. Named Bay of Islands in 1769 by Captain Cook, there are 144 islands in the bay. I take the Kiwi’s word for that one since I’ve never counted. Besides these four historic towns, you’ll also find one of DOC’s national parks– the Bay of Islands Maritime Park.


With so much to see in the Bay of Islands, this video will give you an idea of what you’ll find. Notice the Duke of Marlboro Hotel in Russell– our first stop on a tiki tour around the bay.







Lyn Harris



RV in NZ: How to Spend Your Winters South in New Zealand

Cruising the Bay of Islands

Opua

Bay of Islands

*

Photo By:

Sandy Austin Whanau

Opua, in the throat of the Bay of Islands, twenty-one days from Tonga, is a hurricane hole for an international collection of yachts. There is a small store with good ice cream where you queue up for the mini-auto ferry to Russell and not much else. Although Northland and Far North have an occasional hurricane, Opua is tucked in tight.

Rag Baggers, as those sailors who only know how to pull back on the throttle and steer, sometimes call those cruisers packed into Opua for the season, take their sailing seriously. Some are waiting for a weather window to catch the next leg of their circumnavigation, others will head north to catch the currents and winds then drop back along the Alaska/Canada west coast.

There are cruisers and day sailors proudly trimming their sails in the Bay of Islands. For lack of a better description, cruisers live aboard, poke around and anchor out or wharf-hop. Day sailors usually like to race the closest sail boat– even if that other sail boat doesn’t know it’s racing– then hang around the dock or clubhouse at the end of the day and swap rose-colored sail tales.

Sailing on Open Water

My

Pacific SeaCraft

Dana 24

New Zealand, although it’s the land of top mega yacht racers, is not a cruiser friendly country. We passed Whangarei on our way north. It’s almost impossible to find a slip in the crowded boat basin and most cruisers anchor out. A little farther south is Auckland, the City of Sails. You can anchor or dock at Tauranga, Wellington, Picton or Christchurch. But where do you go from there? Remember you’re straddling the

Roaring Forties. A circumnavigation of both islands is possible with a little good weather and a lot of good luck, but the west coast of New Zealand is so shallow, it’s pretty hard to slip in anywhere if the weather turns ugly. Remember the movie The Piano? Her piano came ashore on the beach in a flat bottom boat. The Piano was filmed on the east coast of the North Island.

If you want to cruise– charter a yacht at Opua, hop in and tour the Bay of Islands. The weather’s warm, the water’s warm and the fishing is hot. Take that fancy sail boat out yourself, or hire a skipper and sit back and enjoy a beer while you burn. New Zealand is close to that hole in the ozone we’ve been watching for years. You can turn to toast in a hurry even on a cool cloudy day.

The Moorings has always been a top of the line charter company. They’ve been in business worldwide for many years and provide quality boats– with or without a skipper. If you want to cruise the Bay of Islands and hang out at the Opua Yacht Club with cruisers from several nations, the Bay of Islands is easy sailing. If you only know how to pull back the throttle and steer, the Moorings has power boats, too.

If you’re traveling by auto or RV, don’t be shy about stopping in at the Opua Yacht Club. It's not fancy– just friendly.

And we made it to Opua– that tiny town in the Bay of Islands with the good ice cream.

Lyn Harris

RV in NZ: How to Spend Your Winters South in New Zealand

Tutukaka & the Poor Knights

Poor Knights

*

Photo By:

shutterfinger

If you’ve bought or rented an auto or RV in New Zealand, you can take a loop to the Tutukaka Coast on your trip up Hwy 1 to the Bay of Islands. New Zealand has some of the best water in the world, so why not enjoy a little diving, fishing or sailing?

We doubled back to Whangarei from Bream Head to get around the Parahaki Reserve. Now, if you follow the signs to Whangarei Falls, you’re headed up Ngunguru Road to the Tutukaka Coast– a thirty minute drive east. If you missed Whangarei Falls while wandering around Whangarei, this is your chance to visit the most photographed water fall in New Zealand. You’ll find easy access walkways and a picnic area at the falls.

It’s not far to Tutukaka, so take your time and enjoy the drive. If you’ve brought your lunch or want to explore a little, Ngungururu, a small settlement on the river, has a picnic area at the north end of the beach near the school. Kayaks and dingies are rented at the motel. The current can be strong at ebb tide, so check the tide table before leaving shore or you might find yourself exploring Ngungururu Bay. If you’re RVing, there’s a Holiday Park nearby. Just don’t park too close to the river unless your RV floats. We pulled into a Holiday Park late at night. The next morning we couldn’t step out– our movan was up to its bumpers in water.

Arches

at
Poor Knights

*

Photo By:

don_elle

Tutukaka is the jumping off spot for the Poor Knights– one of the world’s top ten dive sites. Even if you’re not a diver, you’ll find plenty to do in and around Tutukaka. The harbor has small sheltered beaches– one at the end of the marina. You can rent a kayak or dingy and poke around the harbor. If you’re not a diver but would like to try a little snorkeling or fishing,

Sea Safaris will take you on a personalized tour of the Tutukaka coast and the Poor Knights. If you just want to visit an alpaca and bring back a warm souvenir,–a sweater or blanket, not the alpaca– Rocky Bay Alpacas welcomes visitors.

From January to April, there are many events in the area such as: The New Zealand Big Game Fishing Competition Nationals (Feb), the Northland Mountain Bike Challenge in nearby Glenbervie (Feb) and the Small Boats Fishing Tournament (Mar). If you like fishing or cycling, you’ll find some special event while you’re around Tutukaka.

Maybe you’re really not excited about smelling like fish all day and just want to spend time relaxing in style. You can lay back and view the Poor Knights and the harbor from the Pacific Rendezvous resort.

You won’t want to miss the Poor Knights if you’re a diver. With good underwater visibility and a warm current from the north, you’ll find tropical species such as spotted black grouper and mosaic moray. Reef fish include pink and blue maomao and two-spot demoiselle. The steep cliffs of the islands drop 100 meters below sea level in places to a sandy sea floor. Wall diving, you’ll find fissures, caves, kelp forests, and sponge gardens. South Harbor provides shallower area for novice divers. Experienced divers can find challenging dives all around the islands.

Pinnacle 2

*

Photo By:

Shutterfinger

The Poor Knights were named by Captain Cook because they looked like sleeping Crusaders– heads to the south, feet to the warm northern sun. The northern island is Tawhiti Rahi. The southern island Aorangi. In the early 1800's Maori on Aorangi bred and traded wild pigs (released by Captain Cook) with the mainland Maori. An argument over a bad trade ended in a massacre of the Maori on Aorangi. Since then, the islands have never been inhabited nor claimed as native land. On Aorangi, those Captain Corkers damaged the environment until they were exterminated in 1936. Purchased by a European in 1845, the islands were bought by the crown in 1881 and designated a lighthouse reserve. Today, a marine reserve surrounds the islands and landing is not permitted. Limited recreational fishing is allowed.


Between October and May, millions of seabirds return to the islands to breed. Batter shearwaters (rakes) live on the Poor Knights. Their feeding grounds range across the Pacific between the coasts of New Zealand, the Chatham Islands and California. They return each year to New Zealand– the only place in the world where they breed. Tuatara are found on the larger islands as well as two species of gecko.


Dave and I have spent a lot of time around Tutukaka. We’re both divers, but never dived the Poor Knights. If you want to try one of the world’s top 10 dive sites, you can find a charter dive operator here.

Sting Ray,

Poor Knights

*

Photo By:

mattkk

If you’re looking to charter a sailboat, the Bay of Islands is a better choice. Or, if you just want to enjoy an isolated beach, try Matapouri a little farther north on your loop back to

Hwy 1.

If you have a self-contained RV and want to explore the coast and sample some fresh seafood, ask at the hotel in Tutukaka if you can spend the night on their property. If you want to get back to Hwy 1 to get an early start for the Bay of Islands, parking is available behind the hotel in Hikurangi– just mind your manners and ask first.

Air New Zealand has a Fly to New Zealand and Get Australia Free special. You can visit New Zealand AND Australia for about $950. From LAX– including taxes and fees. This will only be available a short time, but air fare prices change as often as the New Zealand weather. If you’ve passed the "Wish I could visit New Zealand." and moved into the "Let’s go!" watch for those bargains.

The loop to Tutukaka brings us back out on Hwy 1 a little south of Hikurangi. The Tutukaka coast is only a little over three hours from Auckland. Even if you’re not headed north to the Bay of Islands, if you have a day to spare while staying in Auckland, why not rent a car and explore this secluded part of Northland?

We’re headed for Pahia next with a brief stop at Opua, that hurricane hole packed with yachts hiding out for the summer.


Lyn Harris

RV in NZ: How to Spend Your Winters South in New Zealand

Bream Head

Whangarei Heads

*

Photo By:

Ben Nakagawa

When you book a New Zealand tour of Northland, chances are you’ll leave from Auckland and head for Paihia in the Bay of Islands with a short stop at Whangarei Falls. By day three, you’ll be in Opononi on the west coast for a day in the sand dunes or another bus trip into Waipoua Forest and the giant Kauri trees, then back to Auckland. You’ll see a little of Nortland. But, there’s a better, cheaper way to see more and pay less– rent or buy an auto or RV. Either way, you can wander off the main road and find beautiful country any place you wander.

If you spend the night in Whangarei– which I think is one of the best towns in New Zealand-- you might as well pack up a lunch and drive the short distance around the north side of Whangarei Harbour, past the airport, to Bream Head, a high bluff at the end of a peninsula that juts out into the Pacific Ocean. To the north, you’ll find Ocean Beach with its pounding surf and miles of isolated beach. We won’t be passing nearby Whangarei Falls yet. We’ll find them on our way to Tutukaka.

View From

Parua Bay Tavern

*

Photo By:

sammijk

Riverside Drive takes you back over the Hatea River. Beyond the airport, you’ll find the Waimahanga Walkway, an easy 45 minute walk near the mangroves– remember nothing will bite you, so don’t worry about a snake with a bad disposition or an alligator hoping lunch will pass by. If you want to get wet then enjoy your lunch, Tamaterau is a good place to swim or windsurf. The Pines Golf Course, an 18 hole course with views of the harbour is also nearby. There’s a boat launch a little farther up Whangarei Heads Road at Parua Bay. With the airlines as fussy as they are now, you probably won’t bring your own boat, but you can have a beer in the Parua Bay Tavern on the water’s edge and watch the boats. Parua Bay is a small community about 2 kms from the boat launch. McLeod Bay, another swimming/picnic area is just across from Marsden Point, that spot where we checked out the harbour on our way into Whangarei. A small wooden church built in 1858 is still used for Sunday worship.

Bream Head

tramp

*

Photo By:

svmarcy

Taurikura is easy to spot. It’s a natural volcanic rock causeway that disappears into the sea. Woolshed Bay is a popular anchorage for sailboats waiting for a daylight passage into Whangarei, a weather break, or just hanging out enjoying the scenery. From the car park in Woolshed Bay, you’ll find several walkways crisscrossing the Bream Bay Scenic Reserve. You’ll be glad you packed a lunch– or two– if you decide to explore. The entrance to these walks are at Urquharts Bay back a short way (see map), or Ocean Beach– where we’re headed. Like most New Zealand walkways, they’re well signposted. If you’re in really good shape, have the time, and brought a lunch or two, take the six hour (one way) walk and enjoy the view of the offshore islands and harbour views. There’s also a shorter 3 hour hike to Peach Cove and return. This is a kiwi sanctuary, so no dogs are allowed. You can find more information on hiking trails in this area at the Department of Conservation, DOC.

Ocean Beach

*

Photo By:

svetlai

Only 35 kms from Whangarei, Ocean Beach is a nice day trip along the largest enclosed harbour in New Zealand. Along the way, you’ll have a chance to enjoy the water, do some beachcombing or maybe watch dolphin and orca glide in and out of the water. At Ocean Beach, you can beachcomb for miles to the north or poke around in the rock tide pools to the south.

However you spend your day, whether working up a blister on one of those long hikes, swimming and snoozing on the beach, or settling back in the pub with a few brews, remind yourself how glad you are you took the time to rent or buy a vehicle so you could spend a day in part of New Zealand the tour guide forgot to mention as the bus zipped past on the way to the Bay of Islands.

If you’re all worn out from all that hiking, swimming or snoozing and have a self-contained RV, there’s overnight parking at Whangarei Heads at Ocean Beach. You can also find a place to park the night at Parua Bay opposite the hotel or at Pataua South past the public toilet.

Next, we’ll be headed up the road to Tutukaka, but we’ll have to get back to Whangarei so we can get around the Parahaki Reserve.

Lyn Harris

RV in NZ: How to Spend Your Winters South in New Zealand